The rounded wooden slats, oversized armrests and inviting slant-back design identify the classic Adirondack chair. Born a century ago in upstate New York, this chair quickly became a standard fixture at all lakeside retreats and summer camps. To ensure that this casually elegant chair survives for generations to come, use one of the all-heartwood grades of redwood: Deck Heart or Construction Heart. These grades are naturally resistant to insects and decay.
For simplicity sake, this redwood chair is constructed almost entirely of 1x4s and 1x6s; the front legs are cut from 2x4s for maximum strength. You will start by assembling the frame of the chair, which includes the front and rear legs. Then you will finish by installing the slats that form the back and seat of the chair. Use only corrosion-resistant screws to prevent staining. We recommend that you counterbore all visible surface screw holes with a 3⁄8-inch-diameter spade bit to a depth of about 1⁄4 inch. Fill the holes with 3⁄8-inch-diameter redwood plugs, which you can make with a plug cutter.
Tape measure, combination square, cordless drill/driver or electric drill, power miter saw or hand saw, sabre saw with adjustable baseplate, assorted twist-drill bits, countersink bit, 3⁄8- and 7⁄8-inch-diameter spade bits, hammer, orbital sander or sanding block, 3⁄8-inch-diameter plug cutter and pencil compass. Optional: router with 1⁄4-inch-radius roundover bit.
You get exact cutting and materials list for every project. You will be able to buy exact amounts which means you’ll stop wasting your hard earned cash on wrong wood, wrong materials or the wrong quantity.It saves time and cuts down waste. It saves money. You’ll spend more time building, less time fretting!
Cut the two front legs from a 2×4, making sure that both ends of each leg are perfectly square. Next, cut two 36-inch-long pieces of 1×6 for the rear legs. Refer to the rear-leg pattern (shown below) and transfer the 2-inch square grid and other dimensions to the 1×6. Trim the first leg to its final shape using a sabre saw. Use this first leg as a template to cut the second leg to match. Note that the ends of the legs are cut to a 25° angle and a portion of the upper edge is trimmed away to accept the five 1×4 seat slats. Round off the top, rear corner of the legs with the saw and then lightly sand the edges smooth.
Cut to length the three 1×4 crosspieces that connect the right side of the frame to the left side. These pieces include the front rail, lower slat support and brace. Rip a 5° bevel along one edge of both the lower slat support and the brace. This accommodates the 85° slant of the back slats.
Screw the front rail across the front legs, making sure that its top edge is 145⁄16 inch up from the bottom end of the legs. Next, place the rear legs against the inside surfaces of the front legs; align them flush with the top of the front rail. Attach each rear leg to the front leg with three 13⁄4-inch deck screws.
Install the brace 163⁄4 inches from the end of the rear legs and with its beveled edge facing toward the front of the chair. The 1×4 lower slat support will be installed later when assembling the chair back.
The seat and back of the chair are each made up of five 1×4 slats. For the chair back, cut the three center slats to 36 inches long and the two end ones to 30 inches. Also, cut to length the upper slat support and arm support, which get screwed across the rear of the slats. Note that the upper edge of the arm support must be bevel-ripped to 30°. Round off the bottom corners of the arm support to a 13⁄4-inch radius. Lay out the five chair-back slats equally spaced on a flat surface and against a straight edge, such as a secured 2×4, to keep them aligned. Find and mark the centerline for the radius of the curved boards. From that point, use a pencil on a string or a compass to draw the radius across the tops of the three center slats. Cut the rounded ends with a sabre saw, then sand them smooth with 120-grit sandpaper. Use one of the slats as a template to mark the radius onto the two 30-inch-long end slats.
Lay out the chair-back slats, this time face down, on a flat surface. Secure or weight them so that they will stay aligned and square. Space them equally to 21 inches. Measure down eight inches from the top of the center slat and attach the upper slat support with two 11⁄4-inch screws per slat; do not overdrive or counter bore these screws or their sharp points will poke through the other side. Attach the lower slat support across the bottom of the back slats, making sure its 5° bevel is facing up, toward the top of the chair back. Next, install the arm support across the slats making sure it extends beyond the slats an equal amount at each end and that it’s 30°-beveled edge faces up toward the top of the chair back.
Set the assembled chair back into the chair frame between the rear legs, pushed back against the brace. Lift up on the chair back so the top of the lower slat support butts tightly against the bottom of the brace. For now, secure the chair back to the brace with just two screws. Check the angle between the chair back and rear legs; it should be 85°. Installing the armrests next will hold the back at this angle allowing you to more easily finish its installation.
Cut the two 313⁄4-inch chair armrests from a 1×6 referring to the arm pattern to trim them to their final shape. Smooth the large round ends with 120-grit sandpaper. Use the orbital sander or the router to ease the top edges of the armrests for added comfort.
Cut the two short armrest brackets from a 1×4 and attach them flush with the tops of the front legs. Use two screws to secure each armrest on top of the front legs allowing a 41⁄4-inch overhang. Finish attaching the armrests to the arm brackets and to the arm supports with one 11⁄4-inch screw each. Once both armrests are installed, finish attaching the chair back to the brace by driving two 11⁄4-inch screws through the end of each slat. Again, predrill pilot holes to prevent splitting the slats. 5. Seat slats Next, cut the five 1×4 slats for the chair seat. The front seat slat is longer than the other four slats because it wraps around the front legs. Cut a 19⁄16 by 21⁄8-inch notch into both ends of the front seat slat to allow it to fit around the front legs (see illustration). Use the router and roundover bit or orbital sander, if desired, to soften the top edge of the front seat slat. 6. Install the seat slats Install the seat slats onto the frame with equal spaces and with their ends flush to the outside of the rear legs. Leave a 3⁄8-inch space between the last seat slat and the slats of the chair back to allow rain and debris to wash through to the ground and to not collect on the seat.
Finishing There are a variety of ways to finish the chair, depending on the look you desire. Refer to the Finishes section on the back of this brochure for finish formulas and their effects. You must first sand the wood smooth. Start with 100-grit sandpaper and sand all surfaces. Switch to 120-grit sandpaper for the final sanding.
